Sunscreen is one of the cosmetics that remains on the skin for the longest time and can cover the largest body surface area, especially in summer, at the beach, or during outdoor activities.
In recent years, several chemical UV filters common in conventional sunscreens have been subject to review due to their absorption through the skin, their possible link to hormonal alterations, or their environmental impact. Their impact on health is due to the fact that they do not remain solely on the skin's surface: they can be absorbed, enter the bloodstream, and remain in the body for a time. This does not automatically mean they are dangerous, but it does change the level of stringency required. When a cosmetic ingredient reaches the blood, health authorities request more data to confirm that its repeated use does not have vulnerable effects.
A study published in JAMA evaluated the systemic absorption of sunscreen filters and found that several chemical sunscreen filters (such as oxybenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate, avobenzone, and ecamsule) exceeded the threshold at which the FDA, the United States health authority, requests additional safety studies.
This does not mean you should stop using sunscreen. On the contrary, protecting your skin from the sun remains fundamental to preventing burns, spots, premature aging, and skin damage. The key is to choose better.
The 8 ingredients you should avoid
1. Oxybenzone
INCI: Benzophenone-3 / BP-3
Oxybenzone is one of the best-known chemical UV filters and also one of the most controversial. It is used to absorb UVB radiation and some UVA radiation, and can appear in body sunscreens, facial creams with SPF, or makeup with sun protection.
The main concern is that it is absorbed through the skin and has been detected in biological samples such as blood, urine, or breast milk. It has also been studied for its possible activity as an endocrine disruptor, that is, for its ability to interfere with the hormonal system. In addition, the European Union restricted its concentrations through Regulation (EU) 2022/1176, which modified the usage limits for Benzophenone-3 and Octocrylene in cosmetic products.
2. Octinoxate
INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Octinoxate is a UVB filter widely used in conventional sunscreens, day creams with SPF, BB creams, and foundations with sun protection. It has been studied for its skin absorption and its possible link to endocrine alterations, including thyroid function. It also appears in several international environmental restrictions alongside oxybenzone, especially in destinations where the goal is to protect coral reefs and marine ecosystems.
3. Octocrylene
INCI: Octocrylene
Octocrylene is used in sunscreens because it helps stabilize other filters, such as avobenzone, and provides a light cosmetic texture. It is common in facial and body sunscreens, anti-aging formulas with SPF, and even hair products with UV protection.
The concern arises for several reasons. On one hand, it has been flagged as a possible photosensitizer, meaning it can promote reactions in some skin types when combined with sun exposure. On the other hand, the European Union also reviewed and limited its concentrations alongside Benzophenone-3 in Regulation (EU) 2022/1176.
4. Homosalate
INCI: Homosalate
Homosalate is a very common UVB filter in conventional sunscreens. For years it has been used in sports, family, and children's sunscreens. Its safety has been reviewed by European agencies due to its possible endocrine activity. In the United States, the FDA keeps it under review. It has not banned it, but it considers that more studies are needed before it can confidently confirm that this filter is suitable for frequent and prolonged use in sunscreens.
5. 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
INCI: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor / 4-MBC / Enzacamene
4-MBC is a UVB filter that has been used for years in sun cosmetics. It is one of the most relevant ingredients on this list because the European Union has moved towards banning it in cosmetic products through Regulation (EU) 2024/996, considering that it should no longer be used in cosmetics due to the potential risk identified in the scientific evaluation.
It may appear in older products or in sunscreens manufactured before the regulatory changes, so it is advisable to especially check bottles that have been at home for a long time.
6. Avobenzone
INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Avobenzone is a UVA filter widely used in broad-spectrum sunscreens. Its function is important because UVA radiation is linked to photoaging, dark spots, and deep skin damage.
The problem is that avobenzone can be photounstable: it can degrade in light if it is not well stabilized. To compensate, many formulas combine it with other filters such as octocrylene, which can lead to the final product including ingredients that some people prefer to avoid.
It is not necessarily the most concerning ingredient on the list, but it can be a sign of more complex formulas that rely on other chemical filters to remain stable.
7. Parabens
INCI: Butylparaben / Methylparaben / Ethylparaben / Propylparaben
Parabens are not sunscreen filters, but preservatives. They are used to prevent the growth of microorganisms in cosmetics, including some sunscreens.
The debate over parabens is extensive. Not all have the same profile: short-chain parabens, such as methylparaben or ethylparaben, have had a more favorable evaluation within certain concentration limits, while others, such as butylparaben or propylparaben, generate more caution, especially in children's products or those for frequent use.
If you are looking for a sunscreen for children, pregnancy, sensitive skin, or daily use, it may be reasonable to choose formulas without parabens, especially without long-chain parabens. Instead, look for sunscreens with well-tolerated preservatives and formulas aimed at sensitive skin, such as a 100% mineral filter sunscreen.
8. Octisalate
INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Octisalate is a weak UVB filter often used as a stabilizer or companion to other filters, such as avobenzone or oxybenzone.
On its own, it is usually considered less problematic than other filters on this list, but it appears in the systemic absorption study published in JAMA and is also among the ingredients for which the FDA is requesting more data in its sunscreen review. More than by itself, it can be a sign that the formula contains a more complex system of chemical filters. If it appears alongside oxybenzone, avobenzone, or octocrylene, it is worth reviewing the product more carefully.
How to read your sunscreen's INCI in 30 seconds
The INCI is the cosmetic's official list of ingredients. It usually appears on the back of the packaging and is written in international names, generally in English.
When reviewing your sunscreen, look for these names:
| If you see this INCI | Common name | Reason for caution |
|---|---|---|
| Benzophenone-3 / BP-3 | Oxybenzone | Systemic absorption, possible endocrine disruption, environmental impact |
| Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate | Octinoxate | Possible endocrine disruption, environmental restrictions |
| Octocrylene | Octocrylene | Possible photosensitization, regulatory review |
| Homosalate | Homosalate | Evaluated for possible endocrine activity |
| Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane | Avobenzone | Photounstability if not well stabilized |
| 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor / 4-MBC | 4-MBC / Enzacamene | Banned in the EU |
| Butylparaben / Methylparaben | Parabens | Preservatives with hormonal debate, especially certain types |
| Ethylhexyl Salicylate | Octisalate | Systemic absorption and use as a companion to other filters |
What alternatives to use instead: mineral filters
If, when checking your sunscreen label, you find several of the above ingredients, the simplest alternative is to look for a sunscreen with mineral filters.
The most commonly used mineral filters are two:
| Recommended INCI | Common name | What it provides |
|---|---|---|
| Zinc Oxide | Zinc oxide | Protection against UVA and UVB rays |
| Titanium Dioxide | Titanium dioxide | Very good protection against UVB and part of UVA |
Unlike many chemical filters, mineral filters act primarily on the skin's surface. This means they do not need to penetrate the skin to perform their protective function. That is why they are often a particularly interesting option for sensitive or reactive skin, children, pregnant women, or people who prefer formulas with less skin absorption.
This does not mean that any chemical sunscreen is dangerous or that you should stop using sunscreen. Sun protection remains essential. But if you can choose, a well-formulated mineral sunscreen can be a more prudent option, especially for frequent use, sensitive skin, or family care. When choosing a mineral sunscreen, look for Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, or both in the INCI. And, if you are going to use it at the beach or in marine environments, it may be preferable to opt for non-nano formulas, as they are often recommended as a more respectful option for aquatic ecosystems.
Mineral sunscreens are especially interesting for:
- Sensitive or reactive skin
- People with rosacea or a tendency to irritation
- Children
- Pregnant women
- People concerned about their hormonal health
- People who want to avoid filters with higher systemic absorption
- Those looking for an option more respectful of the marine environment and the environment
Even so, mineral does not mean perfect. As with any cosmetic, the complete formula matters. Some mineral sunscreens may leave more of a white residue, although current formulas have improved greatly in texture and finish. It is also advisable to be cautious with spray or powder formats, especially if they contain nanoparticles, because the problem is not so much applying them to intact skin as it is inhaling them.
