Choosing a sunscreen shouldn't just come down to looking at the SPF. Two sunscreens can have the same protection factor and yet function differently, have distinct textures, and use ingredients with very different safety profiles.
The main difference lies in the type of sunscreen filter contained in the formula. In general, we talk about two major families: chemical sunscreen filters, also called organic, and mineral sunscreen filters, also known as physical or inorganic. Both seek the same thing: to reduce the impact of ultraviolet radiation on the skin. The difference is in how they do it, where they act, and what implications they may have for sensitive skin, mature skin, children, pregnant women, or people looking for sun protection that is more respectful of the marine environment.
If you want to delve deeper into how the sun affects the skin, vitamin D, and circadian rhythms, you can also read our article answering the debate on whether the sun is good or bad for the skin.
What is a chemical sunscreen filter
A chemical sunscreen filter is an organic molecule that absorbs part of the ultraviolet radiation and transforms it into a less harmful form of energy, usually heat, which is then released from the skin. For this mechanism to work, the filter needs to be integrated into the surface layers of the epidermis. That is why many sunscreens with chemical filters recommend applying it between 20 and 30 minutes before sun exposure.
Chemical filters usually have the cosmetic advantage of being lightweight, easy to spread, and they barely leave a white residue. This explains why they have been used so much in daily-use sunscreens, facial creams, and invisible formulas.
Among the most common chemical filters in the INCI are:
- Benzophenone-3, also called oxybenzone
- Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, also called octinoxate
- Octocrylene, known as octocrylene
- Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, known as avobenzone
- Homosalate, known as homosalate
-
Ethylhexyl Salicylate, also called octisalate.
A chemical sunscreen can combine several of these filters to better cover the UVA and UVB spectrum, because each filter has a different absorption range. We recommend exploring our article 8 ingredients in your sunscreen that you should avoid.
What is a mineral (or physical) sunscreen filter
A mineral sunscreen filter acts primarily by forming a barrier on the surface of the skin. That barrier helps to reflect, scatter, and also absorb part of the ultraviolet radiation before it penetrates deeply.
Mineral filters do not need that prior absorption time, so they begin protecting from the moment of application, provided they are applied in sufficient quantity and uniformly. There are two globally approved mineral filters:
| Mineral filter | Name in the INCI | What it contributes |
|---|---|---|
| Zinc Oxide | Zinc Oxide | Complete UVA and UVB protection. It is the most interesting mineral filter when seeking broad-spectrum protection. |
| Titanium Dioxide | Titanium Dioxide | Very effective against UVB and short-wave UVA. Usually combined with zinc oxide to reinforce protection. |
At Mr. Loris, you can find the SPF 50 SUN Sunscreen - 100% Mineral Photoprotector and the SPF 50 SUN Sunscreen with tint - 100% Mineral, two options designed for those seeking high protection with mineral filters. Both contain natural ingredients and non-nano particles.
Chemical vs. mineral sunscreen filters: comparison table
| Feature | Chemical sunscreen filter | Mineral sunscreen filter |
|---|---|---|
| Main mechanism | Absorbs UV radiation and transforms it into heat | Acts on the skin surface, reflecting, scattering, and absorbing part of the UV radiation |
| Action time | Usually requires 20-30 minutes before exposure | Acts from application |
| Common ingredients | Oxybenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene, avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate | Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide |
| Skin absorption | Can penetrate the skin and be detected systemically | Remains mainly on the skin surface |
| Texture | Lighter and invisible | Thicker, may leave a white residue |
| Sensitive skin | Higher risk of irritation, allergy, or photoallergy with some filters | Better tolerance in sensitive, reactive, or mature skin |
| Stability | Some filters degrade with light | High stability against UV light |
| Marine impact | Greater concern with filters like oxybenzone and octinoxate | Lesser concern, especially in non-nano format |
